Urethane Supply Company has everything needed to repair and refinish plastics. From plastic welders to instant glues to epoxy fillers to paints to primers, you name it. Some of our products that you may be familiar with are: Mini-Weld Airless Plastic Welder, Plastic Magic Adhesion Promoter, PlatiFix plastic repair kit (not to be confused with Plastex plastic repair kit), Bumper and Trim Black (not to be confused with Forever Black), Wax Blaster wax remover, Flex Filler (not to be confused with Duramix), Black Cat primer (not to be confused with Transtar Hydroflex), Insta-Weld adhesives (not to be confused with Crazy Glue or LocTite), Bumper and Cladding Coat, ATV Fender Welder, Kayak and Canoe Welder for Pelican canoes, FiberFlex welding rods, Uni-Weld welding rods, EZ Weld Hot Air Plastic Welder, Steinel hot air plastic welder. We also carry a complete line of plastic welding rods. For example, we manufacture ABS welding rods, Polypropylene welding rods, Polyethylene welding rods, TPO (TEO) plastic welding rods, Polyurethane welding rods. In addition to the products you need to repair plastic, we also have detailed instructions and tutorials with step-by-step instructions on how to repair plastic.
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Using the KC Welder or the KC Welder Pro, you can create permanent repairs to your cracked kayak or cracked canoe including...
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You may have tried to use different methods to repair your kayak or canoe using some creative techniqes. Tecniques like...
Those techniques you've tried must not have worked, or you wouldn't be looking at this page now. The KC Welder and the KC Welder Pro allow you to do permanent repairs.
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If you have tried a technique that is not listed,
email it to us and we'll add it to the list.
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Here is a temporary repair that one of our customers sent in....
I have a rather humorous story about my vain attempt to repair a canoe...and some pictures from the mess I made trying to remove my latest patch job: tar backed aluminum roof flashing. We, for the past 3 years, have tried everything...yes everything conceivable in the form of adhesive, epoxy and tape to fix this old boat. Actually duct tape (our first attempt) worked the best of them all but due to the size of the hole we were covering it just wouldn't last. Epoxies won't stick, not even J.B. weld. And riveted patches always leak and snag on rocks. Last year, in a last ditch desperate attempt to get the thing in the creek again, I applied a layer of tar backed aluminum roof flashing to the keel. It worked for about 1 mile and then began to leak. Finally I contacted Coleman and asked their advice, so I am now ready to fix the thing right...well, not quite...I now have to remove the freaking tar! I got out my trusty grinder with a cup brush and slung the crap everywhere, before realizing it wasn't removing jack crud, just smearing it and slinging it all over my legs and patio cover. So I went and got some turpentine which is pretty useless on 1/8" thick tar. Finally I got out my Wagner Heat Gun and melted it and scraped it. These pictures are AFTER 2 hours of work. It looks like I have another couple hours left...But at least I know what to do now... Feel free to use this email and pictures on your website, and some complimentary orange filler rod would be nice too :)
Paul Cunningham |
| Step 1 - This is a typical crack that you might find on the bottom of a kayak. The first thing you need to do in any plastic repair is to clean the plastic. Use soap and water to remove any water soluble contaminants. Use a plastic cleaner like our Part Number 1000 - Super Clean Plastic Cleaner to remove any sovlent soluble contaminants. Realign the plastic if is has overlapped itself. |
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| Step 2 - To maximize the strength of the repair, it helps to put a v-groove in the crack. There are two ways you can do this. The quickest way is with a Dremel® tool with a teardrop shaped tip. If you don't have a Dremel, you can melt in a v-groove with your KC Welder. Just turn the welder at an angle and run it down the length of the crack. | |
| Step 3 - Using the KC Welder, melt off a "chunk" of the rod into the V-groove. Once the melted pastic rod is applied, make sure to melt it together with the plastic that is already there. This is a slow process. Allow time for the heat to penetrate the existing plastic and stir the melted rod with the melted kayak (or canoe) plastic. Work small areas at a time. Do not rush the job or you will not get good intermixing of the rod and the substrate. | |
| Step 4 - Smooth out the repair and you're done. | |
That's how easy it is to repair your cracked canoe or cracked kayak with the KC Welder and the KC Welder Pro.
"I manufacture Extractor Rescue sleds and riverboards. I use the ATV Fender Welder occasionally to make hull repairs. I recommend my customers to your website as a source for repair welders and filler rod. I just recommended the welder to Dafo, my distributor in Sweden. You may be hearing from them. You may use my product name and add it to your website on the Kayak Welder page if you want." Dan Elias - Owner |
Hey guys, Thanks again for your help! Eric McIntyre |
Now, I'd like to share some important information about kayaks that are cracked to the edge. Normally, cracks to the edge are much more difficult to repair. You see, when polythylene gets cracked and repaired, polyethylene will more than likely crack in the same place that was repaired. Here's why. Even though you have melted the rod into the base material, there is some discontinuity in the long molecular chains that make up the plastic.
Each KC Welder and KC Welder Pro includes some stainless steel reinforcing wire mesh. Using the welder, you can melt the stainless steel reinforcing wire mesh down into the plastic. It's like putting rebar in concrete! Here is how it works...
| Cut a piece of mesh to span the crack about 1 inch (2.5cm) on each side. Using the tip of the welder, simply (but slowly) melt the wire mesh into the plastic. Once the mesh is buried into the plastic, you can go over it with filler rod. | |
After you add the KC Welder to your shopping cart, you will be asked to choose the color.
| Black | Blue | Dark Green |
| Orange | Red | Yellow |
| Natural |
| For Your Information... |
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| Once you add the KC Welder or KC Welder Pro to your shopping cart you will be asked to select the color you need. |
Do you trust your temporary repairs when your going over Class 5 rapids? It's a no brainer. Your real decision is whether or not to buy the KC Welder or the KC Welder Pro. Use this comparison chart to make your decision.
Each rod is 10 inches (25.4 cm) long and there are 6 of them in a bundle for a total of 5 feet (1.3 m) of rod per bundle.
| Blue $8.50 |
Dark Green $8.50 |
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| Orange $8.50 |
Red $8.50 |
Yellow $8.50 |
| Natural $8.50 |
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